Cat and Joe Update #2

Dear friends and family,

It has been a busy couple of weeks since we last wrote, and we have a lot of stories to tell. Notably, the last few weeks have contrasted a lot with our first letter to you about city life in Nairobi. After a couple of weeks in the “concrete jungle,” we are now staying in a rural area, in a small town called Mwatate, about 1.5 hours from the coastal city of Mombasa. We are staying at the Taita International School, a small private school founded by Mjomba and his wife, Maria. We are surrounded by children from pre-school through high school, who love to play, sing, dance and ask questions about our life in the U.S. The air is fresh and clean, and the rains come every morning or evening, making the whole area so green and beautiful. Every morning we are awoken by the songs of thousands of birds and the scampering of lizards and geckoes on the tin roof over our heads (a bird just flew into my room through the open door as I wrote that!). We are enjoying eating fresh mangoes, bananas, and chewing sugar cane. We will be staying here in the Coast Province for the majority of our visit here in Kenya.

I hope you are staying warm in the midst of the snow and ice - hard to comprehend since it is so hot and sunny, though rainy, here. I am actually sunburned! The short rains have come here, with torrential downpours almost every night, and mudslides and floods claiming a few lives. It is amazing to see how quickly the landscape changes from a dry, arid area to a totally green, fertile, lush savanna and forest landscape. Rain is truly precious here as water has become such an important and scarce resource.

After we sent the last letter, I met with Bill Karanja, the head librarian at the Daily Nation, Kenya’s national newspaper, who will be helping me with archival research on articles about informal education of women and girls in Kenya. They are in the process of digitizing all of their newspapers back to 1960, which will make it possible for me to search the archive on a computer – this will really simplify the research process and I am grateful that I arrived just in time to be one of the first to use this digital archive.

We also met with Magdalene Bariki, who works with the Green Belt Safaris ecotourism program of the Green Belt Movement in Nairobi. She welcomed us into their office in a building downtown, and served us chai to welcome us. She told us all about the organization of the Green Belt Movement, explained how the organization was founded and administered, and explained what is involved in a Green Belt Safari. She showed us photos of a high school group from New York who visited the GBM for homestays and to work at tree nurseries in the Central Province. She is from Taveta and told us that there are GBM grassroots groups working in the Taita-Taveta district, where I will be working with the Vindo Multipurpose Cooperative Society, and in Kwale in the southern Coast Province. This is auspicious since it means that I can observe GBM activities nearby rather than having to leave Taita for research in the Central Province, which was my original plan. It is still unclear if I will have open access to this group, but I think that we have established a good rapport with Magdalene and hope that she will help us to make contacts. She also said that we can participate in a Green Belt Safari program in the Central Province near Nairobi on Feb. 4 with another group that has made plans to visit then. We are considering this but we are nervous about the potentially high costs and the possibility that we might be limited in seeing a superficial perspective on their work, without getting deeper into the organization. However, we also understand that this is the mechanism that the organization has set up to allow outsiders to get exposure to their work, and to raise funds, so we want to respect their system as well.

Before we left Nairobi, I had the opportunity to visit the Nairobi Muslim Academy, an Islamic school connected to the South C Mosque, close to our apartment in Nairobi. I visited this school at the invitation of Fatima, a Somali woman who is the principal of the school, and whom I met during the meeting of women activists that I wrote about in my last letter. The school serves both boys and girls for preschool and primary grades, and is the only boarding secondary school for Muslim girls in Nairobi. I was led around the school by Safiya, a young Somali Kenyan woman who is the assistant to the principal and a recent graduate of the University of Nairobi. Fatima and Safiya explained to me that Muslim girls face special disadvantages in education in Kenya, as many schools were established either for boys or by Christian missionaries who did not accept Muslim students. The Islamic madrasa schools that did exist often only served boys. Prior to the establishment of the Nairobi Muslim Academy, many Muslim girls would either not go to secondary school or would attend Christian schools where they may have faced some discrimination or alienation. Safiya told me that she had attended a Catholic school which was fairly liberal, as they let her wear trousers and a hijab with her school uniform, and they let her pray during school at the regular times. But one thing she did not like about the school was that she was forced to attend Mass, which she felt was wrong since the school knew that she was a Muslim and would not be converted to Catholicism. Today, Muslim girls can now attend the Nairobi Muslim Academy, where they can receive instruction in the 8-4-4 national curriculum of both secular education and Islamic Religious education. The school is very impressive and large, and provides a well-rounded curriculum for students from pre-school through Form 4, the senior year of high school. They have a modern computer lab and physics and chemistry labs that were built with the support of the Islamic Development Bank in Saudi Arabia. Currently they are serving almost 650 children in the surrounding community – predominantly Somali Kenyans or refugees coming to Kenya from Somalia or other countries. I am very glad that I had the opportunity to visit this school and to learn more about Islamic education in Kenya.

The next day, Joe and I decided to go to the National Museum of Kenya, which we realized was still in the process of being renovated and was closed to the public. We decided to walk around the grounds instead, and enjoyed exploring the gardens and the tree nursery surrounding the museum. We realized how starved we were to see greenery as we wandered through the wooded park. We saw multiple species of Acacia, Jatropha, Euphorbia, Aloe, orchids and vanilla. As we were exploring a garden filled with aloe, we were approached by two men – one who appeared to be a security guard and the other who claimed that he was a guide at the Snake Park (but his breath reeked of alcohol and I did not trust him). They said that we were not allowed in that area without paying admission to the Snake Park. When I explained in Swahili that we did not know that we were in the park and that we would just leave, they said that we were already guilty and therefore had to pay something. We did not want to pay the full price for non-residents of 800 shillings each (about $12), while residents were charged just 100 shs - so they said we could compromise and just pay what we wanted to pay – we agreed to pay 400 shillings for the both of us ($5) and they agreed. However, the “guide” insisted that we pay him directly, which seemed like a con to us, but we didn’t know what else to do and so we went along with it. But even if it was a con, he led us into the Snake Park and proceeded to give us an amazing tour, and by the end we felt he was very friendly. He knew a great deal about all of the species of fish in the aquarium, including Nile Perch (the illustrious imported fish which have destroyed the Lake Victoria ecosystem – they can weigh up to 25 kg and have eaten tons of the indigenous species of fish – they are the subject of the film Darwin’s Nightmare). He then insisted that we go in to see the crocodiles and the snakes. We saw Black Mambas – the most poisonous snakes in Kenya that leave their victims with either 7 steps or 7 words before death – as well as huge pythons curled around their eggs, puff adders, spitting cobras, green tree snakes, and these scary vipers with huge mouths holding collapsible teeth that are 5 cm long. We also saw huge pancake turtles with soft shells that live in water, and tortoises, which he claimed are the reason why they say “No Hurry in Africa.” He showed us the difference between the crocodile and the American Alligator (whom he nicknamed “George Bush”) – the crocodile has a distinct smile, with teeth pointing out, a pointy nose, yellow-brown scaly skin and barbed tail, while the American alligator has a broader nose and distinctly dark green scaly skin. We were amazed and impressed by our tour of the Snake Park and glad that we were able to learn so much about the reptiles from this guide. He then took us up to the National Museum, where there was a reception for European Union diplomats who were supporting the renovation of the museum. We did not want to crash the party but he and the other staff insisted that we relax as we mingled in the crowd, sipped sodas and ate snacks. Then he proceeded to take us inside to see the unfinished renovations, where we saw an impressive collection of taxidermy – we saw a stuffed zebra, giraffe, rhino, elephant, cheetah, hippo, and a huge collection of birds. We also saw a skeleton of a mastodon with tusks that weighed 50 kg each, and another skeleton of a dinosaur that had been discovered in Kenya. We are really looking forward to going back to visit the museum when the renovations are completed – I would really like to learn more about Kenya’s geology and the archaeological history of hominids from the region. Luckily, our “guide” turned out to be a nice guy and we learned a lot from him.

The day after our museum visit, we finally left Nairobi to go to Voi and Mwatate in the Coast Province. We borrowed a car and went with Mjomba and his brother-in-law, Philip Mwasi, who lives in Dubai but is home visiting Kenya on a business trip. We had a great time on our drive, although the road was really bad most of the way with lots of diversions, potholes, and gravel roads – ironic since this is a major highway in Kenya. The nice thing about having our own car was that we were able to bring most of our stuff with us in the car without the hassles we might encounter on public transport. Also, we were able to stop along the way for food and drinks, and we were able to take our time to enjoy the scenery. As we moved down in elevation from Nairobi, we could see the change in topography and ecology. The highlands gave way to grassy savannas filled with Acacia trees, Euphorbia, and other succulent plants that thrive in a drier environment. We saw many more herds of cattle, sheep and goats. When we passed into Ukambani, the land of the Kamba people, we also began to see more Maasai herders. Also, the usually dry landscape was filled with green, since this is the rainy season, and it was truly beautiful. We also started to see many Baobab trees, which have huge trunks up to 10 meters in diameter, and which were covered with lush green leaves. These majestic trees are my favorite trees in Africa – they are known to collect water, prevent soil erosion, and are locally revered for their connection to the ancestors. Cutting such a tree is known as bad luck in many communities in Kenya, and they preside majestically in many savanna ecosystems.

When we arrived in Voi, we went to meet Mama Mjomba, the mother of Mjomba and a community elder and leader. I met Mama Mjomba when I visited Kenya last July, and we had arranged that I would work with her in my research on women’s organizations and popular education of women and girls. Mama Mjomba is now in her mid 70s and has enjoyed a long career as a teacher, mother, wife, politician, church leader, women’s rights advocate, and the first woman mayor of Voi town. She was widowed at the tender age of 40 and raised and educated her 7 children on her own after that. She founded the Vindo Multipurpose Cooperative Society (VMCS), a land cooperative which she established particularly to assist poor people and widows to purchase land as a cooperative. She has helped hundreds of people to become more independent, self-sufficient, and food secure. She was very happy to see us this evening and she and her family members had cooked chapattis and chicken stew for us. We prayed and sang and discussed politics, since it is getting closer to the elections. Mama showed us some of the awards which she was given this year by President Kibaki, including the “Golden Warrior” award for national service and another plaque for her service as the only woman on the Board of Trustees of the National Council of Churches of Kenya (NCCK). She also offered us fermented honeycomb from her farm, which is a traditional welcome gift to visitors. I was dismayed to see bee larvae squirming around in the honeycomb, but Joe was delighted and Mama was happy to hear Joe proclaim that this was powerful medicine.

The following day we relaxed at the Taita International School in Mwatate, our permanent home here in Kenya. The Taita International School is a community-based private school which was founded by Mjomba and his wife, Maria. It is located on a hill outside of the small town of Mwatate, and is surrounded by rural homesteads, trees, and set against the striking backdrop of a mountain with a rocky peak. It is beautiful here, with fresh air and surrounded by banana, papaya and mango trees. And the best part is that we are constantly surrounded by children. The sounds of children playing everyday is truly a balm to our hearts. Although the month of December is a school holiday elsewhere, the Taita International School has an enrichment program modeled after “Kids on Campus” in Athens, where Maria used to work while attending Ohio University. The children are wonderfully creative and sweet and smart and funny and helpful. They are involved in every aspect of taking care of the school, and they really take pride in their work. We feel really lucky to have this opportunity to work with the children and to assist this school in its beginning stages. Joe taught a martial arts class one morning to the whole school, including pre-school kids up to teachers. We had a lot of fun, though it was challenging to describe all the movements from English to Swahili.

A few days after we arrived, we visited Mama Mjomba’s “shamba” (farm), which is part of the land purchased by the Vindo Multipurpose Cooperative Society. We were impressed by the variety of food crops that were planted – including maize, beans, millet, mangoes, papaya, passion fruits, and a wide variety of flowering trees. There were a number of beehives hanging from the trees to collect honey and to assist with pollination. We helped Mama, her friend Mama Alice, and some men who work at the farm to clear a large plot of land of weeds and sod. The work was difficult and hot – Joe and I both got sunburned – but it was gratifying to finally put our hands into the soil and to do some hard labor. The soil was impressively loamy and sandy. We planted over 80 Jatropha seeds – plants which can produce biofuels – which Mama had been given by the local agricultural officer. She explained that he often comes to give her seeds for new plants that they are experimenting with, since he knows that she is an innovator. She is excited by the possibility of raising Jatropha for biodiesel and said that this could be a cash crop that might be very valuable to her and her family. We also helped to plant 9 passion fruit vines around several different fruit trees, as well as several rows of millet, maize, pojo (pigeon peas) and other seeds. We harvested mchungu, wild greens that are also called “bitter herbs” that we fried in oil with onions – they are bitter but are medicinal and full of vitamins and minerals. She told me that she was really impressed with our work and that anyone who loves agriculture is a friend to her. As she watched Joe working with the other men, she commented “AI! This man can WORK!” and “He and I could get a lot of work done together.” At the end of the day she exclaimed that she had never seen a mzungu (white person) who was able to work as hard as Joe on the farm, and that she is really excited about having him here to help for the next few months. Mjomba said that we may have prolonged her life by this experience and the hope that she has in working with us.

The following day, Joe and Mjomba went to Mjomba’s uncle’s farm, which is about an hour’s walk from the Taita Internaitonal School. They have worked there three days this week, and cleared a large area with Mjomba’s sons so that they can plant beans and vegetables for the school. They are hoping to develop this farm as a demonstration farm for the school and a source of fresh fruits and vegetables to supplement the children’s diets. Having a school garden will really help to teach agricultural skills to the children and will make the school more self-sufficient in its food security. The farm is plagued with baboons, who destroy crops and steal fruits – they are like deer or raccoons to an Ohio gardener. Uncle Wilson told us that if you throw a rock at a baboon, he will pick it up and throw it back at you!! It will be challenging to design a baboon-proof garden.

On Sunday, we rested most of the day and then hiked for about 2 hours through the Mwatate area with Mjomba, Maria, and her brother John. We walked to the Mwatate Dam, a large water reservoir constructed for irrigation by a huge sisal plantation nearby. Many children and women walk there daily to collect water, which they carry in buckets on their heads back to their homesteads. The dam was surrounded by reeds and filled with water lilies. We greeted many people along the way and noticed that people in the rural areas are so much friendlier toward visitors than in Nairobi. We walked along the railroad, which connects Mombasa to Nairobi. Then we walked down into a swampy wetland, which was planted with mango, banana, papaya and apple-mango trees, as well as maize and other crops. We were amazed to see huge trees literally covered in ripening mangoes! We also noticed thousands of birds flying above the wetland, and remarked that Kenya is a popular migration zone for birds traveling from Europe to South Africa. The weather had cooled down as it was early evening and the rain clouds were gathering on the horizon. It was truly a beautiful evening and we felt great getting so much exercise and fresh air. We feel so lucky to have this opportunity to live in such a gorgeous place as the Taita Hills in the rainy season.

Before we conclude, we also want to highly recommend a phenomenal book to you that we read recently – The Kite Runner by Khaled Hosseini. Our friend Michelle Ajamian sent us the book before we left (thanks Michelle) and we both read it within 24 hours. This book chronicles the life history of a young man from Kabul, Afghanistan, who later became a refugee in California. His life story is set against the backdrop of the wars which have raged in his country since the 1970s. It is a powerful story of survival, love, friendship, and redemption that has really touched our hearts. We hope that you all will enjoy it as much as we have.

Please keep in touch and let us know what you are up to. We have missed you and hope that your holiday season is full of love, peace, hope, and light.

Sincerely,
Cat and Joe